|
Buying a home
| Refinancing
your home |
Getting a home-equity loan
If you're like most people, purchasing a home is the biggest
investment you'll ever make. If you're considering buying a
home, you're likely aware of the complexity of the endeavor.
Because of the numerous factors to consider when purchasing a
home, it's important to prepare as best you can. Some common
home-buying principles and caveats are presented here for your
consideration. By keeping them in mind, you'll help create a
successful and more enjoyable experience. These Top Ten
lists are by no means exhaustive. Since your home could cost you
25 to 40 percent of your gross income, it's important to conduct
research, ask questions and study the process carefully.
Buying a home
- Looking for a home without being pre-approved. As
a potential buyer competing for a property, you'll have a
better chance of getting your offer accepted by being as
prepared as possible. Consider this hierarchy of
preparedness:
- Neither pre-qualified nor pre-approved
- Pre-qualified
- Pre-approved
The benefits available at each level can be easily
understood when viewed from the seller's perspective.
Imagine you're a seller in receipt of multiple offers to
purchase your property. A complete stranger (buyer) is
asking you to take your property off the market for at least
the next two to three weeks while they apply for a loan. As
the seller, lets consider the type of buyer you'd prefer to
deal with.
- Neither pre-qualified nor pre-approved
- This buyer provides no evidence that they can afford
to purchase your property. You may wonder how serious
they are since they're not at least pre-qualified.
- Pre-qualified
- This buyer has met with a mortgage broker (or
lender) and discussed their situation. The buyer has
informed the broker regarding their income, expenses,
assets and liabilities. The broker may also have seen
their credit report. The buyer provided you with a
letter from the broker stating an opinion of what the
buyer can afford.
- Pre-approved
- This buyer has provided a broker written evidence of
income, expenses, assets, liabilities and credit. All
information has been verified by a lender. As a result,
much of the paperwork for this buyer's loan has been
completed. This buyer will probably be able to close
quickly. They provide you with a letter (pre-approval
certificate) from the lender. You're as certain as
possible that this buyer can close.
As a potential buyer, you can see that being pre-approved
will give you the best chance of getting your offer
accepted. This is critical in a competitive situation.
- Making verbal agreements. If you're asked to sign
a document containing instructions contrary to your verbal
agreements--don't! For example, the seller verbally agrees
to include the washing machine in the sale, but the written
purchase contract excludes it. The written contract will
override the verbal contract. More importantly, your state
may require that contracts for the sale of real property be
in writing. Do not expect oral agreements to be enforceable.
- Choosing a lender just because they have the lowest
rate. While the rate is important, consider the total
cost of your loan including the
APR
, loan fees, discount and origination points. When receiving
a quote from a lender or broker, insist that the discount
points (charged by the lender to reduce the interest rate)
be distinguished from origination points (charged for
services rendered in originating the loan).
The cost of the mortgage, however, shouldn't be your only
criterion. Have confidence that the company you select is
reputable and will deliver the loan with the terms and costs
they promised. If in the final hours of the transaction you
determine that the lender has suddenly increased their
profit margin at your expense, you won't have time to start
again with a different lender. Ask family and friends for
referrals. Interview prospective mortgage companies.
- Not receiving a Good Faith Estimate. Within three
business days after the broker or lender receives your loan
application, you must receive a written statement of fees
associated with the transaction. This is both the law and
the best way to determine what you'll pay for your loan.
Bring the Good Faith Estimate (GFE) with you when you sign
loan documents. You should not be expected to pay fees which
are substantially different from those contained in your
GFE.
- Not getting a rate lock in writing. When a
mortgage company tells you they have locked your rate, get a
written statement detailing the interest rate, the length of
the rate lock, and program details.
- Using a dual agent--i.e., an agent who represents the
buyer and the seller in the same transaction. Buyers and
sellers have opposing interests. Sellers want to receive the
highest price, buyers want to pay the lowest price. In the
standard real estate transaction, the seller pays the real
estate commission. When an agent represents both buyer and
seller, the agent can tend to negotiate more vigorously on
behalf of the seller. As a buyer, you're better off having
an agent representing you exclusively. The only time you
should consider a dual agent is when you get a price break.
In that case, proceed cautiously and do your homework!
- Buying a home without professional inspections.
Unless you're buying a new home with warranties on most
equipment, it's highly recommended that you get property,
roof and termite inspections. This way you'll know what you
are buying. Inspection reports are great negotiating tools
when asking the seller to make needed repairs. When a
professional inspector recommends that certain repairs be
done, the seller is more likely to agree to do them.
If the seller agrees to make repairs, have your inspector
verify that they are done prior to close of escrow. Do not
assume that everything was done as promised.
- Not shopping for home insurance until you are ready
to close. Start shopping for insurance as soon as you
have an accepted offer. Many buyers wait until the last
minute to get insurance and do not have time to shop around.
- Signing documents without reading them. Whenever
possible, review in advance the documents you'll be signing.
(Even though some specifics of your transaction may not be
known early in the transaction, the documents you'll sign
are standard forms and are available for review.) It's
unlikely that you'll have sufficient time to read all the
documents during the closing appointment.
- Not allowing for delays in the transaction. In a
perfect world, all real estate transactions close on time.
In the world we live in, transactions are often delayed a
week or more. Suppose you asked your landlord to terminate
your lease the day your purchase transaction was scheduled
to close. A day or two before your scheduled closing date,
you discover your transaction is delayed a week. In a
perfect world, no one is inconvenienced and your landlord is
willing to work with you. More likely, however, your
landlord is inconvenienced and angry. Will you be thrown
out? Will you have to find interim housing for a week or
more? The eviction process takes a little time, so the
Sheriff won't immediately remove you, but this type of
stress-producing episode can be avoided. How? Terminate your
lease one week after your real estate transaction is
scheduled to close. That way, if there is a delay in closing
your transaction, you have some leeway. This approach might
cost a little more, then again, it might not.
[Back to the top of this page]
Refinancing your home
- Refinancing with your existing lender without
shopping around. Your existing lender may not have the
best rates and programs. There is a general misconception
that it is easier to work with your current lender. In most
cases, your current lender will require the same
documentation as other companies. This is because most loans
are sold on the secondary market and have to be approved
independently. Even if you have made all your mortgage
payments on time, your existing lender will still have to
verify assets, liabilities, employment, etc. all over again.
- Not doing a break-even analysis. Determine the
total cost of the transaction, then calculate how much you
will save every month. Divide the total cost by the monthly
savings to find the number of months you will have to stay
in the property to break even. Example: if your
transaction costs $2000 and you save $50/month, you break
even in 2000/50 = 40 months. In this case you'd refinance if
you planned to stay in your home for at least 40 months.
Note: This is a simplified break-even analysis. If
you are refinancing considering switching from an adjustable
to a fixed loan, or from a 30-year loan to a 15-year loan,
the analysis becomes much more complex.
- Not getting a written good-faith estimate of closing
costs. See item number four above.
- Paying for an appraisal when you think your home
value may be too low. Have the appraisal company prepare
a desk review appraisal (typically at no charge) to provide
you with a range of possible values. Your mortgage company's
appraiser may do this for you. Do not waste your money on a
full appraisal if you are doubtful about the value of your
home.
- Using the county tax-assessor's value as the market
value of your home. Mortgage companies do not use the
county tax-assessor's value to determine whether they will
make the loan. They use a market-value appraisal which may
be very different from the assessed value.
- Signing your loan documents without reviewing them. See
item number nine above.
- Not providing documents to your mortgage company in a
timely manner. When your mortgage company asks you for
additional documents, provide them immediately. They are
doing what's necessary to get your loan approved and closed.
Delays in providing documents can result in a costly delays.
- Not getting a rate lock in writing. When a
mortgage company tells you they have locked your rate, get a
written statement which includes the interest rate, the
length of the rate lock and details about the program.
- Pulling cash out of your credit line before you
refinance your first mortgage. Many lenders have
cash-out seasoning requirements. This means that if you pull
cash out of your credit line for anything other than home
improvements, they will consider the refinance to be a
cash-out transaction. This usually results in stricter
requirements and can, in some cases, break the deal!
- Getting a second mortgage before you refinance your
first mortgage. Many mortgage companies look at the
combined loan amounts (i.e., the first loan plus the second)
when refinancing the first mortgage. If you plan on
refinancing your first loan, check with your mortgage
company to find out if getting a second will cause your
refinance transaction to be turned down.
[Back to the top of this page]
- Not knowing if your loan has a pre-payment penalty
clause. If you are getting a "NO FEE" home-equity loan,
chances are there's a hefty pre-payment penalty included.
You'll want to avoid such a loan if you are planning to sell
or refinance in the next three to five years.
- Getting too large a credit line. When you get too
large a credit line, you can be turned down for other loans
because some lenders calculate your payments based upon the
available credit--not the used credit. Even when your equity
line has a zero balance, having a large equity line
indicates a large potential payment, which can make it
difficult to qualify for other loans.
- Not understanding the difference between an equity
loan and an equity line. An equity loan is
closed--i.e., you get all your money up front and make fixed
payments until it is paid if full. An equity line is
open--i.e., you can get numerous advances for various
amounts as you desire. Most equity lines are accessed
through a checkbook or a credit card. For both equity loans
and lines, you can only be charged interest on the
outstanding principal balance.
Use an equity loan when you need all the money up
front--e.g., for home improvements, debt consolidation, etc.
Use an equity line when you have a periodic need for money,
or need the money for a future event--e.g., childrens'
college tuition in the future.
- Not checking the lifecap on your equity line.
Many credit lines have lifecaps of 18 percent. Be prepared
to make payments at the highest potential rate.
- Getting a home-equity loan from your local bank
without shopping around. Many consumers get their equity
line from the bank with which they have their checking
account. By all means, consider your bank, but shop around
before making a commitment.
- Not getting a good-faith estimate of closing costs. See
item number four above.
- Assuming that your home-equity loan is fully
tax-deductible. In some instances, your home-equity loan
is NOT tax deductible. Do not depend on your mortgage
company for information regarding this matter--check with an
accountant or CPA.
- Assuming that a home-equity loan is always cheaper
than a car loan or a credit card. Even after deducting
interest for income tax purposes, a credit card can be
cheaper than a credit line. To find out, compare the
effective rate of your home-equity line with the rate
on your credit card or auto loan.
Effective rate = rate * (1 - tax bracket)
Example: The rate of the home-equity line is 12 percent,your
tax bracket is 30 percent, your effectiverateis: .12 * (1 - .3) = .12 * .7 = .084 = 8.4
percent.
If your credit card is higher than 8.4 percent, the equity
loan is cheaper.
- Getting a home-equity line of credit when you plan to
refinance your first mortgage in the near future. Many
mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e.,
the first loan plus the second) when refinancing the first
mortgage. If you plan on refinancing your first, check with
your mortgage company to find out if getting a second will
cause your refinance to be turned down.
- Getting a home-equity line to pay off your credit
cards when your spending is out of control! When you pay
off your credit cards with an equity line, don't continue to
abuse your credit cards. If you can't manage the plastic,
tear it up!
|